FCE Cosmetique held its 23rd exhibition in São Paulo in May. The event runs concurrently with FCE Pharma. The fairs provided a showcase for 1,100 brands to 16,224 visitors. FCE Cosmetique attendance rose 20%, according to João Paulo Picolo, managing director, NürnbergMesse, the show organizer. Exhibitors maintain that the 2018 edition, attracted more qualified leads, too.


“We really enjoyed the event. It was not only better than last year, but our booth got crowded with customers,” said Christiane Neves, business manager, Brenntag Personal Care.


Due to the synergy and business opportunities, some companies are able to offer solutions for both industries. Liliana Brenner, Ashland`s Latin America marketing director for care specialties explained the strategic position. “We have participated in the FCEs for many years. The event is very important because we have concentrated most of our customers at once, to deliver the message of innovation.”


Supply-Side Ideas

During FCE Cosmetique, Symrise promoted two materials. One is SymControl Care, which is based on Mediterranean microalgae and controls oiliness and improves skin hypersensitivity. The other, derived from a microalgae from Tahiti, is said to increase the anagen phase or growth stage of hair, making it stronger, denser and resistant to breakage according to the company.


Chemyunion, attentive to the growing demand for male cosmetics, integrated its sensorial and technological experiences into an exclusive space for men to test products. Considering the analysis that minimalist and multifunctional formulations are an interesting strategy for this market segment, combined with the fact that these are the attributes men are looking for, including ease of use and convenience. The company has developed 4Man, which is composed of a synergetic combination of hop, licorice, red algae extract, Gallic rose, panthenol and menthol, especially designed to meet the needs of male skin. It is a natural and multifunctional solution with four effects in one single active ingredient and can handle excessive oily skin while reducing signs of aging. It also promotes moisturizing and has smoothing properties, according to Chemyunion.


DuPont’s Gene Care OSMS BA is billed as a highly purified anhydrous betaine. According to DuPont, osmolytes occur naturally in the skin as a component of Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF). Gene Care OSMS BA is 100% biobased and derived from non-GMO sugar beet; this amino-acid derivative is a natural osmoprotectant which offers many moisturization and protection benefits in personal care applications, according to the company.

Osmolytes’ strong water binding properties makes Gene Care OSMS BA an excellent moisturizer, which has been proven by many in-vitro and clinical tests, according to the company. It has applications in hair care, too, as it helps fight frizz and hair damage—attributes that make it an essential addition to any formula aimed at the humid Brazilian personal care market. The material is Ecocert- and Cosmos-approved.


Well-Attended Conferences

Conference presentations as well the Congress of Cosmetology, organized by the Brazilian Association of Cosmetology (ABC), gave attendees new ideas about innovations, technological challenges and market trends.


Belcorp’s John Jimenez, for example, provided insights into genderless cosmetics. Based on Mintel research, 69% of boys aged 9 to 17 use beauty products. MAC, Make Beauty and Milk Makeup are just three of the brands that have capitalized on this trend, but opportunities remain. According to Jimenez, cosmetics have a role in the growing demand for genderless products.


That’s because personal care products are closely aligned to a trend where more people feel comfortable with themselves and want to be free to project their individuality. Cosmetics companies’ objective should be to put aside traditional consumption patterns based on age, sex or economic situation, according to Jimenez. This trend has evolved in the categories of fragrances, makeup, personal care and skin care; however, it is the fine fragrance that has been at the forefront of the movement, using increasingly common terms such as genderless, gender-free and gender-full.


Practical examples of the application of neuroscience in the design of cosmetic products under the gender-free concept were presented during FCE Cosmetique. Thanks to the use of eye-tracking and the participation of Dave Castiblanco, the famous androgynous model from Colombia, a method of concordance/discordance analysis was presented to help in the selection of a perfume under the genderless concept. A panel of 62 volunteers, including heterosexual men and women, as well as gays, lesbians and transsexuals, participated in the development of the methodology.


Aerosol Segment


The aerosol pavilion debuted this year with the goal of gathering companies to present their novelties in the same place. One highlight was a lecture entitled  “The Use of Nanotechnology in Aerosol.”

Antal György Almásy, vice president of the Brazilian Association of Aerosols and Sanitizing Products (ABAS), explained that nanotechnology in aerosols allows more than 150 microns in spray cleaners while the traditional mechanisms produce from 80 to 120 microns. Therefore, nanotechnology is able to break even more particles, which results in a more economical and optimized process that is harmless to the ozone layer.


“In this way, we set the precedent for products like Nanosal and hair dye to apply powdered on the hair,” he said.


The Social Networks

The key role of social networks is to engage young consumers, according to Jonathan Biancarelli, digital strategy director, L’Oréal Paris.


“We need to rethink how we interact with them, since they want to consume and act,” he stated.


According to Biancarelli, the images shared on social networks should make the viewer want to touch them and see them from different angles.


Tânia Sá Dias, a member of the ABC board of directors and the event coordinator, declared that the FCE showed market trends such as the boom in men’s products, as well as sophistication and the ongoing growth of the industry. She mentioned that even in a period of crisis, the number of brands in some categories increased, such as makeup, underscoring consumer demand for personalization in personal care categories.

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Daniela Ferreira
Correspondent
[email protected]
Mobile: 55-11-993880867

Daniela Ferreira is a marketing and communication professional in both consumer and B2B cosmetic markets. At present she is master´s degree student in fashion program at São Paulo University (USP) with research project about fashion and fragrance and also including works presented at conferences. Her expertise comprises managing and launching products, communication planning and market studies for identifying new business opportunities. She also has a blog about perfume, its interactions and insights for the market (https://olfativo360.com.br/)